Auckland Anniversary is a long weekend toward the end of January. My Christmas gift from Mark was tickets to an Island over this weekend. When December 25th finally came I found out where we would be going: Samoa!
Samoa is made up of several islands: 2 larger islands that are independent Samoa, and a number of smaller islands that are American Samoa. We ended up staying two nights on Upolu, which is the main Island of independent Samoa with Apia as the capital.
Mark got us an Airbnb at the Outrigger Hotel. We stayed in a traditional fale (pictured above). Although the hotel had a pool, shared bathrooms and showers along with breakfast, our fale did not have air conditioning nor a door. It was amazing to spend a night in one but it was very hot! We had mosquito nets around our bed and the sound of stray dogs & flying foxes kept us up all night. I would recommend staying in one for only a night, and preferably by the water to get a constant breeze (plus the sound of the Ocean).
Although it was humid it was interesting to see how others live, especially on a remote Island in the Pacific.
Normally when we travel we do not plan too much. We have an idea of some things we want to do, however we do most of the planning once we arrive and actually see how things are. This was a mistake in Samoa. Since we were only there for 2 nights and 3 days we really needed to make the most of it. The problem was that we arrived Saturday afternoon. By the time we got our rental car, checked into the hotel and took a dip in the pool to cool off, most attractions were closed. As for Sunday, nothing is open! This left us with only really Monday to do and see everything.
We ended up basically driving around the entire Island from Apia to East, South and then West Coasts. Here is a list of things you must do and see:
- Falefa Falls
- Fuipisia Falls
- To Sua Trench
- Vaiula Beach
- Papase’ea Sliding Rocks
- Piula Cave Pool
- Papapapai-tai Falls
- Swimming with the Turtles
Falefa Falls is about a 40 minute drive from Apia. There is a small sign when you drive by but ample parking when you pull in. It was about $5 tala a person with a 5 minute walk. The falls themselves were not that impressive as there was a bridge over it. What I enjoyed was walking thru the bush to get there. It was so lush!
Fuipisia Falls was about 15 minutes South from Falefa Falls, over La Mafa Pass. Again, there was a small sign alerting you that you have reached your destination, and again, ample parking. Fun fact: there is no public land in Samoa. Every beach, waterfall, etc., is owned by the local village. Any fee they charge goes back to the direct community and thus you should never just park and walk along a beach. This waterfall was $20 tala a person, quite a price hike, but definitely worth it!
The To Sua Trench is the main attraction in Samoa. It is a large hole where the Earth has caved in and ocean water comes thru a small cave. You climb down a steep wooden ladder and enjoy the water while taking in this natural wonder.
The best way to enjoy the Trench is to pack up a days worth of drinks and food to bring with you. It costs $20 tala to get in, and you can bring in anything you want. After taking a dip in the Trench you can hang in a fale by the water. This is super relaxing and cost effective if you want to chill with your own meal for a few hours. This is really the best way to do it!
You can also do this at Fuipisia Falls but you are not by the ocean nor can you get in any water to cool off.
We sadly were unable to find Vaiula Beach, as the back roads from the main “highway” were pot-hole ridden and when we arrived, we found we had to pay for a fale (we basically ended up on a resort instead of a village beach). This was disappointing because it took time, and we missed one of the best surf beaches on the Island.
One place that was not hard to find was the Papase’ea Sliding Rocks. I saw photos of people sliding down these rocks like the Rere Rockslides by Gisborne, NZ. But in person this was nothing like it. It was quite dangerous so we decided to just sit in the pools to cool off. $5 tala per person to enter. Do note there is about a 10 minute walk down steep stairs that can be wet and slippery.
We were also unable to do or see the Piula Cave Pool, Papapapai-tai Falls nor swimming with the Turtles on the East Coast, so add those to your list and let us know how they were!
Now to the best places to stay:
- Outrigger Hotel & Fales
- Return to Paradise Resort
- Sheraton Samoa Beach Resort
- Seabreeze Resort
- Sheraton Samoa, Aggie Grey’s Hotel & Bungalows
We booked our Fale at the Outrigger Hotel off Airbnb. The staff were friendly and breakfast was the best part. Fresh eggs, fruit juice and local fruit! They locked the parking lot at night and had a security guard working at all hours to let you in or out.
We stopped at Return to Paradise Resort for a drink and then dinner. We were amazed at how big it was, yet how no one was staying there. The best part of this resort: the beach. You need to come here and see a sunset as it is just magical.
The closest hotel to the airport, less than a 5 minute drive, is the Sheraton Samoa Beach Resort. This is also the best resort for families. They again had lots of room and we did not find it too crowded. It was busier than Return to Paradise, and we assumed this because of the location. There were hammocks, a swim up bar and a few restaurants. This is one reason why most people choose resorts, however, we think it takes away from the genuine Island life as it is very ‘Western’ with many modern comforts.
We stopped at the Seabreeze Restaurant for lunch and noted the nice townhomes of this resort. They did not have much of a beach but did have kayaks and paddle boards.
When driving thru town we passed the other Sheraton: Aggie Grey’s Hotel & Bungalows. Aggie started a small food truck for soldiers and became known as ‘Bloody Mary.’ This old fashioned building is a gem in it’s own right… but no resort.
Eat at:
- Apia Fish Market
- Sails Restaurant and Bar
- Seabreeze Restaurant
The Fish Market is next to the bus depot and Craft Market in Apia. You can buy fresh fish from the market or order fish and chips. We got one order of 4 fillets and chips and it was plenty to eat for 2 adults. It was also only 10 tala, talk about cheap eats! We sat in an empty stall and soaked up the smells and views of boats and locals buying fish for their after Sunday Church meal.
The Market had authentic yet touristy gifts for moderate prices. It was really the only place you could buy these items except for the airport, thus I would recommend coming here the day before you leave. It was pretty touristy and you will get heckled to buy things but take it in stride and enjoy the stalls.
Sails Restaurant and Beach Bar was our first stop in Apia. Sadly it was raining when we arrived so we did not take advantage of the beach. That said, it did our stomachs right. From the taro chips and oka, we left happy campers. Be sure to wash it down with Vailima or Taula.
Seabreeze had the same offerings, with less beer choices, for a more expensive price. The service was good but the view was even better.
Tips: Do not drink the water. The hotels will say it is fine, but you will get the ‘Samoan Shits.” Also, bring a fan. This will help anytime you are just sitting.
Have you been to a Pacific Island? Do you prefer staying at resorts? Have you ever had a time when not planning a trip backfired?